MA Musings

Deepart Algorithm and Hewitt, J. (2018) Intergalactic To develop my own final design to backtrack the algorithmic process through, I created an assortment of work through the deepart algorithm, combining silhouettes of fashion croquis with various neural networking images, chess piece motifs, constellations and other related ideas. These designs will give me an AI generated starting point for the garment I shall be aiming to reach via my manual AI  neural network algorithm.... I shall start with a tube and get a different student each time to alter the shape a little - aiming to get steadily closer to the final design.... and pattern cutting each stage of the designs evolution....

I was struggling a bit with how to proceed in this next term of cutting creativity.... I have the overall procedure in mind... basically working like a neural network from a very basic starting shape and refining it gradually - cutting and patterning each point along the way, and getting my study group to behave as the AI - making changes at each iterative stage to bring the design closer and closer to the end result.. I just hadn't figured out how to achieve the design we'd be aiming for... then I saw these images by Chris Rodley which appear to use the depart algorithm I played with last term to combine shape and style..... I really want a great visual abstract to be aiming towards to really give myself a challenge...

Todays draping exercises involved some complicated asymetric, folding of cloth, origami style, trying to re-create specific designs from the catwalk. I chose a Chalayan dress, which while deceptively simple an elegant in form proved an excellent puzzle to solve. I attempted the front in several ways, including steaming a curve into a bias faced edge... which while probably not the method used in the original gown, proved very effective in toile form... Chalayans work is deeply inventive, and turned up in the manus ex machina exhibition at the met.... his combination of new technologies in showpieces that are more sculpture than fashion inspire thoughts.... Discussion ensued as to what made creative pattern cutting creative, what was ordinary pattern cutting and where draping and flat cutting fitted.....

Read "Zero waste" in preparation. Used 1/2 scale mannequin to create an asymetic zero waste dress by taking a rectangle of paper, marking abitary lines and curves on it, cutting them then assembling into a garment, deciding on the fly what sort of pattern piece each shape would make best. Very random, very free - not possible to design a garment first, has to be designed as you go along. interesting. Draped the Dior "Bar" jacket as a replica on the stand. Talked about iconic parts of the design. looked at adaptations and new versions of the design by others. challenged to create a design recognisable as this jacket but also incorporating the designs of amazing architect Zaha Hadid for next class.

Books Read "Japan fashion now" and "the cutting edge" I'm looking at how unusual designers have formed cohesive collections while still playing with very extreme concepts..... "I am interested in the space between the body and the clothes so that the body can feel entirely at ease because each persons body shape is so different. this space creates an individual for it also gives the wearer freedom of movement for body AND SPIRIT" Issey Miyake ( note to self - Philip Pullmans Daemons from the Northern Lights trilogy - spirits? what makes an AI spirit? does an AI have a soul?) Hiroaki Ohya - Wizard of Jeanz collection - books that turn into pieces of clothing ShinChiro Arakawa - Canvasses collection - presenting clothes as art in frames yoshiki Hishinuma - developed thermo fabrics so no cutting was involved just the reshaping of cloth into extreme shapes.. (I'm sure there's a victorian corset that was moulded) Rei Kawakubo - oversiz...

key thoughts from todays class... Keep an open mind, keep developing ideas revisit skills and learn new ones break preconceptions record EVERYTHING whether you think it was successful or not decide on your specialist direction Identify relationship between a technique and the impact it has on a final visual design key themes and issues that influence a cutter Start creating a portfolio and research file on key concepts and ideas relevant to the major project - photos, samples etc etc Historical context look at placement of seamlines and how they change over time techniques lost due to costs - industrialisation, mechanisation, quality see how dart and seam placements vary even in modern garments season to season Cultural differences and influence on clothing, status and role of the cutter past present and future garments - can we look to the past to extrapolate the future?